Page 551 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

There’s a terrace, a garden and sea views. No credit cards. €110

Yacht Marina Via Borgo Italia 0923 913 649, marinahotelpantelleria.com. Full
of designer touches, this hotel has 37 rooms with a/c, satellite TV and internet access;
the best, costing €20 extra, have a harbour-view balcony. €120

PANTELLERIA ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation on Pantelleria is generally expensive, with options in the town
usually cheaper than those in more remote and romantically located places. During
July and August, many places impose a minimum stay of three days or even a week,
but at other times of the year, there are no such constraints (indeed islanders are only

too happy to have some out-of-season business), and prices drop considerably: be
prepared to bargain. There’s no campsite on the island, and camping rough is
impractical given the terrain and lack of water.

The most alluring option is to rent one of the idiosyncratic dammuso houses dotted
around the island. Ask at the tourist office or contact one of the agencies in
Pantelleria town; try La Cossira, Via Borgo Italia 77 ( 0923 911 078,

lacossira.it); Dammusi di Rukia ( 335 120 6226, pantelleria.com); or
Pantelleria Travel ( 199 440 862, pantelleriatravel.com). Most dammusi are
€300–1000 per week according to size and season (you may be able to book less
than a week’s rental in low season), and you’ll usually need a car to get to and from
them.

EATING AND DRINKING

There are several restaurants and trattorias in town – mostly rather flash, though not
unaffordable. Many double as pizzerias – and good ones too – so you don’t need to
spend a fortune every night. As for drinking, the bars on the harbourfront are where all

the action is, starting at 6am (when they open their doors for the arriving ferry
passengers) and finishing any time between midnight and 2am depending on season
and the manager’s inclination. All have tables by the water, where prices are higher.

EATING AND DRINKING ON PANTELLERIA

With its mix of Sicilian and North African elements, Pantelleria offers some unique
gastronomic experiences. At some point, you ought to sample the locally produced
ricotta-type cheese known as tumma, which is one of the ingredients of ravioli con
menta e ricotta, a slightly bitter but fresh-tasting dish for which Pantelleria is
famous. Pasta often comes served with pesto pantesco, a rough sauce of tomatoes,

garlic and basil; while an insalata pantesca utilizes tomatoes, onions, cubes of
boiled potato, herbs and local capers – the local capers are touted as the best in the